IDAHO: A Climbing Guide

Horstmann Peak

Written by

Tom Lopez

in

Climbing and access information for this peak is on Pages 167-169 of the book. Updated September 2019

Horstmann Peak is located up Fishhook Creek. It is one of the most popular Sawtooth summits with a variety of routes to the top, ranging from a long Class 3 scramble to steep snow and ice climbs. The book describes 7 routes on the peak: South Ridge, Sickle Couloir, North Face, Northwest Buttress, Northeast Ridge, North Ridge Spur and the East Face. First ascent information is listed below. USGS Warbonnet Peak

Horstman Peak from Fishhook Creek.
Horstmann Peak as viewed from Fishhook Creek.
Horstman Peak viewed from Redfish Lake.
Horstmann Peak as viewed from Redfish Lake.

South Ridge Route, Class 3

The South Ridge Route is the easiest way to the summit but it requires the longest approach. Below you will find a few route photos.

The south ridge is accessed from the west via highest Stephens Lake. Climb to the ridge top between the peak and Fishhook Spire. Once you reach the ridge you will have to find your way up and down toward the peak on a good goat trial.
The South Ridge is accessed from the west via the highest Stephens Lake. Climb to the ridge top between the peak and Fishhook Spire. Once you reach the ridge, you must find your way up and down toward the peak on a good goat trail.
Horstman Peak's south east face.
Continue along the ridge until you reach this view of Horstmann Peak’s Southeast Face. From this point, traverse toward the summit under the tower on the left.
Climb this line to the summit.
Climb this line to the summit.
The summit.
The summit.

Sickle Couloir, II, Snow and Ice Climb

Perhaps the most sought-after route on Horstmann was pioneered by Kirk Bachman. The route is detailed on Page 168. John Platt’s trip report is linked below. It contains many photos showing this steep route.

Additional first ascent information is as follows:

Northwest Buttress: Kirk Bachman and R. Young

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