IDAHO: A Climbing Guide

Category: First Ascents

  • 1929 Borah Declared Idaho’s Highest Peak

    1929 Borah Declared Idaho’s Highest Peak

    The book discusses the discovery of Borah Peak as the highest point in Idaho on Pages 16 and 17. This entry expands on that discussion and adds source documents relating to the issue as well as documentation for T.M. Bannon’s first ascent in 1912.

    The following 1929 article from Idaho Statesman declared to the world that Borah Peak, also known as Mount Borah, was Idaho’s highest peak. However, the second article on this page demonstrates that not everyone was willing to accept that Borah was the highest peak. The third Idaho Statesman article on this page disputes the fact that many knew before 1929 that Mount Borah was taller than Hyndman. Interestingly, there is support for this proposition (see below) as T.M. Bannon, a government surveyor, placed the Beauty Benchmark on the summit in 1912, although it does not appear he mapped an elevation at the time. Click on the articles to expand and enjoy.

    Idaho Statesman, November 29, 1929.
    Idaho Statesman December 19, 1929.Except from the Thirty-Third Annual Report of the Director of the United States Geological Survey, 1912.

    This 1912 entry is one of many by T.M. Bannon and covers his work on Mount Borah and briefly describes his first ascent route.
    This 1912 entry is one of many by T.M. Bannon and covers his work on Mount Borah. It briefly describes his first ascent route.

     

     

     

     

  • A. H. Marshall

    A. H. Marshall

    A. H. Marshall was the first person to visit the high points of the 48 contiguous states, accomplishing the task between 1919 and 1936. He also was the first climber to focus on the Seven Devils Mountains. His efforts in the Seven Devils are covered on Page 18 of the book.

    I recently discovered a page on the Highpointers Club website which has links to Marshall’s fascinating journals. Use the following link to visit that page.

    Highpointers Club A.H. Marshall page.

  • Iowa Mountaineers

    Iowa Mountaineers

    The Iowa Mountaineers climbing club was a major player in the in early Sawtooth Range exploration. The club was founded by John and Ede Ebert in 1940, as the University of Iowa Mountaineering Club. The club later incorporated as a not-for-profit Iowa corporation and became a major force in sponsoring climber education and expeditions throughout the world.

    Schwartz Pinnacle, Harriets Pinnacle, Mount Bruce, Mount Ebert, the Elephants Perch and, of course, Mount Iowa all owe their names to the Iowa Mountaineers. You can read about the Club’s Sawtooth explorations and first ascents on Page 19 of the book as well as in numerous entries in the Sawtooth Range chapter. A 2018 article in the University of Iowa Alumni magazine provides a good history of the Club: Mountain Roots by Josh O’Leary.

    Photo courtesy of the University of Iowa Alumni Magazine and the Ebert Family.
    Photo courtesy of the University of Iowa Alumni Magazine and the Ebert Family.
    This is the front page from a 1987 brochure advertising the club’s upcoming climbing school in the Sawtooth Range.

    Other Resources

    Iowa Mountaineers, Inc. website.

    theIowaMountaineers.blogspot

  • Robert Limbert (1885-1933)

    Robert Limbert (1885-1933)

    “Two Gun” Robert Limbert is probably the most interesting personality associated with Idaho Climbing History. You can read about his climbing-related accomplishments on Pages 15-16 of the book. His accomplishments and interests extended far beyond mountaineering. Robert developed Redfish Lodge and he is credited as the moving force behind the establishment of Craters of the Moon National Monument. In fact, the Visitors Center at the monument is named after him.

    Other Resources

    Self Portrait, Robert Limbert (Courtesy Robert Limbert Collection, Boise State University Library.)
    Self portrait of Robert Limbert. Courtesy Robert Limbert Collection, Boise State University Library

    Limbert’s May 25, 1927 article about climbing Snowyside Peak. Click on the photos to enlarge.

    From the Idaho Statesman.
    From the Idaho Statesman.

    A newspaper article about Robert Limbert.

    This article was undated when I found it but more than likely is from late 1920.
    This article was undated when I found it but more than likely is from late 1920.
  • Robert Underhill (1889-1983)

    Robert Underhill (1889-1983)

    Robert Underhill and his wife Miriam were outstanding alpinists. They are credited with bringing modern climbing techniques to the Sawtooth Range. During 1934 and 1935, the couple made many first ascents in the Sawtooths. You can read about their Idaho exploits on Pages 17-18 of the book.

    Other Resources

    These article clippings from the Idaho Statesman acknowledge the Underhills’ visit to Idaho.

  • Miriam Underhill (1899-1976)

    Miriam Underhill (1899-1976)

    Unquestionably the leading American female alpinist of her time, Miriam O’Brien Underhill and her husband Robert brought modern mountaineering techniques to the Sawtooths in 1934 and 1935. In the process, the couple made many first ascents and wrote the first mountaineering articles on the range. Miriam’s article is available at this link: Leading a Cat by Its Tail. You can read about her Idaho exploits on Pages 17-18 of the book.

    Other Resources

    These articles from the Idaho Statesman acknowledge the Underhills’ visit to Idaho.