Category: Mountaineer History

  • The First Winter Ascent of the Finger of Fate by Jacques Bordeleau

    The First Winter Ascent of the Finger of Fate by Jacques Bordeleau

    The first winter ascent of the Finger of Fate was made on March 19, 1973 by James Christopher Hecht, Harry Bowron, Gordon K. Williams and Joe Fox. I was part of the support team which also included Art Troutner and John Platt. I took the color photos. I developed the black and white photos that were shot by the ascent team.

    1. Our first day was spent skiing up Hell Roaring road down in the forest, the end of the road being Camp I. Semi-unplanned as it was we hooked up with a Boise contingent of the DFC&FC* on the ski in, boosting our group to seven adventuresome lads. The second morning we were greeted with scenery. The fickle "Finger of Fate" is seen pointing skyward in this view from the outlet at Hell Roaring lake, flanked by the Arrowhead and the Birthday Cake on the skyline. * Decker Flats Climbing & Frisbee Club
    Our first day was spent skiing up Hell Roaring Road down in the forest, the end of the road being Camp I. Semi-unplanned as it was we hooked up with a Boise contingent of the DFC&FC* on the ski in, boosting our group to seven adventuresome lads. The second morning we were greeted with scenery. The fickle “Finger of Fate” is seen pointing skyward in this view from the outlet at Hell Roaring Lake, flanked by the Arrowhead and the Birthday Cake on the skyline. *Decker Flats Climbing & Frisbee Club
    2. Looking SW from the Hell Roaring Lake outlet, toward Imogene lake, which is up and around the spectacular canyon beyond. This was my first winter expedition and at this point I remember being extremely impressed with the snow forms on the mountains. Everything about the Sawtooths was magnified by being there in winter. I was 22 years old in 1973 and it may as well have been the Himalayas to me.
    Looking southwest from the Hell Roaring Lake outlet toward Imogene lake, which is up and around the spectacular canyon beyond. This was my first Winter expedition and, at this point, I remember being extremely impressed with the snow forms on the mountains. Everything about the Sawtooths was magnified by being there in winter. I was 22 years old in 1973 and it may as well have been the Himalayas to me.
    3. The second day we humped from the road end to Hell Roaring lake, where the climbing began. Carrying heavy packs up to high Camp II was tough. The 3rd morning dawned a little funky but cleared up after a while.
    The 2nd day we humped from the road end to Hell Roaring Lake, where the climbing began. Carrying heavy packs up to High Camp II was tough. The 3rd morning dawned a little funky but cleared up after a while.
    4. The North Face of the Finger, showing the "Open Book" route in deep shadows, not a nice climb in winter. It was attempted repeatedly before selecting an alternate plan.
    The North Face of the Finger, showing the “Open Book” route in deep shadows, not a nice climb in Winter. It was attempted repeatedly before selecting an alternate plan.
    5. Gearing up in the morning. Nice equipment, huh? I believe those are my hickory 215 cm Sundins Mountain Skis from REI, with screwed in metal edges, and my surplus canvas + aluminum frame pack. I fondly remember treating the ski bases with Pine Tar so wax would adhere properly. I don't miss doing it anymore though. The Silveretta cable bindings were versatile and enabled amazing winter travel, though stylish turns were difficult. Also my classic aluminum cup.
    Gearing up in the morning. Nice equipment, huh? I believe those are my Hickory 215CM Sundins Mountain Skis from REI, with screwed in metal edges and my surplus canvas + aluminum frame pack. I fondly remember treating the ski bases with Pine Tar so wax would adhere properly. I don’t miss doing it anymore though. The Silveretta cable bindings were versatile and enabled amazing Winter travel, though stylish turns were difficult. Also my classic aluminum cup.
    5. Gearing up in the morning. Nice equipment, huh? I believe those are my hickory 215 cm Sundins Mountain Skis from REI, with screwed in metal edges, and my surplus canvas + aluminum frame pack. I fondly remember treating the ski bases with Pine Tar so wax would adhere properly. I don't miss doing it anymore though. The Silveretta cable bindings were versatile and enabled amazing winter travel, though stylish turns were difficult. Also my classic aluminum cup.
    Gearing up in the morning. Nice equipment, huh? I believe those are my hickory 215 cm Sundins Mountain Skis from REI, with screwed in metal edges, and my surplus canvas + aluminum frame pack. I fondly remember treating the ski bases with Pine Tar so wax would adhere properly. I don’t miss doing it anymore though. The Silveretta cable bindings were versatile and enabled amazing winter travel, though stylish turns were difficult. Also my classic aluminum cup.
    7. Soft morning light kisses the powder snow 'Good Morning', as Gordon leads off toward the climb on Day 3.
    Soft morning light kisses the powder snow ‘Good Morning’ as Gordon leads off toward the climb on Day 3.
    Skiing up from Camp II the morning of March 19, 1973. A cloudy dawn turned into a fine day.
    Skiing up from Camp II the morning of March 19, 1973. A cloudy dawn turned into a fine day.
    9. A closer look at the Open Book route.
    A closer look at the Open Book Route.
    Ascending the colouir to the West Ridge saddle.
    Ascending the colouir to the West Ridge saddle.
    11. Looking back down the col toward Camp II, with someone working their way up the track way below.
    Looking back down the col toward Camp II, with someone working their way up the track way below.
    12. Sitting atop the buttress west of the Finger, making a plan, before the climbers go scramble back down to the saddle and head up the West Ridge route.
    Sitting atop the buttress west of the Finger and making a plan before the climbers scramble back down to the saddle and head up the West Ridge Route.
    16. Rappelling down the Buttress back to the saddle.
    Rappelling down the buttress back to the saddle.
    The Finger of Fate viewed from the buttress, with Hell Roaring Lake snowed over down below, looking east toward the Sawtooth Valley. Our cars are waaaay out there. Big bad Castle Peak on the horizon.
    The Finger of Fate as viewed from the buttress, with Hell Roaring Lake snowed over down below, looking east toward the Sawtooth Valley. Our cars are waaaay out there. Big bad Castle Peak is on the horizon.
    15. If you see the rope, follow it upward and you'll notice Gordons' head (center) peering out from a belay position above a pitch.
    If you see the rope, follow it upward and you’ll notice Gordon’s head (center) peering out from a belay position above a pitch.
    A casual belay.
    A casual belay.
    Looking down at the saddle.
    Looking down at the saddle.
    The Buttress west of the Finger, as seen from the Finger. I took up a position on top of the buttress with my Graflex to shoot pics back toward the Finger, while the rock climbers worked on their goal. You see the route up and down the buttress in the disturbed snow.
    The Buttress west of the Finger as seen from the Finger. I took up a position on top of the buttress with my Graflex to shoot pics back toward the Finger while the rock climbers worked on their goal. You see the route up and down the buttress in the disturbed snow.
    Looking toward the Arrowhead, Sevy Peak and the Birthday Cake displayed prominently on the skyline.
    Looking toward the Arrowhead, Sevy Peak and the Birthday Cake displayed prominently on the skyline.
    West view from the Finger of Fate, Chris coming up.
    The view west from the Finger of Fate. Chris is coming up.
    Belay on! View is to the NNW, with Decker Peak the more distant summit on the right.
    Belay on! View is to the NNW with Decker Peak the more distant summit on the right.
    Harry leads a nice pitch.
    Harry leads a nice pitch.
    The lads are now seen lower left if you look closely, watching as Harry leads a line. These are the pics I shot from over on the buttress.
    The lads are now seen (lower left if you look closely) watching as Harry leads a line. These are the pics I shot from over on the buttress.
    Looks like Gordon belaying the next climber up, while Harry pokes around.
    Looks like Gordon is belaying the next climber up while Harry pokes around.
    Making a leap of faith. There is a large gap from one boulder to the next, which takes a measured leap to do properly. Don't come up short, but really don't overshoot the landing.
    Making a leap of faith. There is a large gap from one boulder to the next, which takes a measured leap to do properly. Don’t come up short, but don’t overshoot the landing either.
    Harry on the summit block.
    Harry on the summit block.
    Detail summit photo, First Winter Ascent, March 19, 1973. L to R > James Christopher Hecht, Harry Bowren, Gordon K. Williams, Joe Fox.
    Detail summit photo of the first Winter ascent (March 19, 1973). Left to right: James Christopher Hecht, Harry Bowren, Gordon K. Williams and Joe Fox.
  • Off Belay Magazine —The Sawtooth Issue 1975

    Off Belay Magazine —The Sawtooth Issue 1975

    Off Belay Magazine was THE climbing magazine of its day. The following articles contained the most extensive discussion of the Sawtooth Range yet published in 1975. Special thanks to Ray Brooks for providing the scans. (Click on the scans to enlarge)


  • 1938 Account of a Mount Borah Ascent

    1938 Account of a Mount Borah Ascent

    The following article was published in the Salt Lake Tribune.  Tribune Intermountain Service. September 25, 1938

    TWIN FALLS, Idaho—Climbing Mount Borah, Idaho’s highest peak, is like walking a tight rope for at least a quarter of a mile with nothing underneath you on either side and only loose rock shale in the middle.

    That is the warning issued by Walter Williams, Twin Falls mountain climbing enthusiast, one of 16 Idahoans to scale the summit last week in the largest excursion ever to reach the 12,655-foot peak. Four parties from Twin Falls, Mackay and Pocatello made the climb, more than three miles long, taking from 6:30AM to 7:30PM for all to make the round trip. 

    Williams, with Area Scout Executive Amby Frederick, were the first of the Twin Falls group to reach the summit, making the ascent in 4 hours and 35 minutes. Both agreed the climb is not quite as interesting as that up Mount Hyndman, long thought to be the top in Idaho elevations, but agreed the badly crumbling rock on Mount Borah is more dangerous. Part of the way one must travel a narrow, razor-like hogback, part of which is so narrow that a false step might mean a fatal slide down a 45-degree slope under tons of avalanching shale. 

    Fast walking to avoid loss of balance on crumbling rock is necessary to pass this stretch, the hikers explain. From the summit, one can see in all directions, the lofty Lost River Mountains extending over the horizon. Mount Hyndman also is visible from the peak along with several other mountains only a few feet lower than Mount Borah itself.

  • Iowa Mountaineers

    Iowa Mountaineers

    The Iowa Mountaineers climbing club was a major player in the in early Sawtooth Range exploration. The club was founded by John and Ede Ebert in 1940, as the University of Iowa Mountaineering Club. The club later incorporated as a not-for-profit Iowa corporation and became a major force in sponsoring climber education and expeditions throughout the world.

    Schwartz Pinnacle, Harriets Pinnacle, Mount Bruce, Mount Ebert, the Elephants Perch and, of course, Mount Iowa all owe their names to the Iowa Mountaineers. You can read about the Club’s Sawtooth explorations and first ascents on Page 19 of the book as well as in numerous entries in the Sawtooth Range chapter. A 2018 article in the University of Iowa Alumni magazine provides a good history of the Club: Mountain Roots by Josh O’Leary.

    Photo courtesy of the University of Iowa Alumni Magazine and the Ebert Family.
    Photo courtesy of the University of Iowa Alumni Magazine and the Ebert Family.
    This is the front page from a 1987 brochure advertising the club’s upcoming climbing school in the Sawtooth Range.

    Other Resources

    Iowa Mountaineers, Inc. website.

    theIowaMountaineers.blogspot

  • Robert Limbert (1885-1933)

    Robert Limbert (1885-1933)

    “Two Gun” Robert Limbert is probably the most interesting personality associated with Idaho Climbing History. You can read about his climbing-related accomplishments on Pages 15-16 of the book. His accomplishments and interests extended far beyond mountaineering. Robert developed Redfish Lodge and he is credited as the moving force behind the establishment of Craters of the Moon National Monument. In fact, the Visitors Center at the monument is named after him.

    Other Resources

    Self Portrait, Robert Limbert (Courtesy Robert Limbert Collection, Boise State University Library.)
    Self portrait of Robert Limbert. Courtesy Robert Limbert Collection, Boise State University Library

    Limbert’s May 25, 1927 article about climbing Snowyside Peak. Click on the photos to enlarge.

    From the Idaho Statesman.
    From the Idaho Statesman.

    A newspaper article about Robert Limbert.

    This article was undated when I found it but more than likely is from late 1920.
    This article was undated when I found it but more than likely is from late 1920.
  • Robert Underhill (1889-1983)

    Robert Underhill (1889-1983)

    Robert Underhill and his wife Miriam were outstanding alpinists. They are credited with bringing modern climbing techniques to the Sawtooth Range. During 1934 and 1935, the couple made many first ascents in the Sawtooths. You can read about their Idaho exploits on Pages 17-18 of the book.

    Other Resources

    These article clippings from the Idaho Statesman acknowledge the Underhills’ visit to Idaho.