IDAHO: A Climbing Guide

Category: Rick Baugher

  • T.M. Bannon by Rick Baugher

    T.M. Bannon by Rick Baugher

    Thomas M. Bannon was also a self-taught mountaineer. Although his name is not widely known in mountaineering circles, during his surveying career from 1889 to 1917 he climbed nearly one thousand summits in the American West. More than two hundred of these summits were in Idaho. Bannon’s cryptic reports, supplemented by the rock Cairns, Wooden triangulation signals, chiseled cross-reference marks; and brass benchmarks that he left behind tell his fascinating story. More than one hundred of his Idaho ascents were probably first ascents. These climbs included many of Idaho’s highest and most famous peaks, including Mount Borah (which he called Beauty), Leatherman Peak, and Invisible Mountain in the Lost River Range; Diamond Peak (which he called Thumb), Bell Mountain (Bannon’s Finger), Lem Peak, and May Mountain (Bannon’s Hi Peak) in the Lemhi Range; Standhope Peak and Smiley Mountain in the Pioneers; Castle Peak in the White Clouds); and Mount McGuire in the Salmon River Mountains. Bannon’s death at 48 cut short an extremely active life.

    I spent a good part of the 1990’s investigating pioneer government surveyors in the Idaho and western US mountains. This involved recovering some 100 mountain top triangulation stations placed by Bannon & party in Idaho from 1911-1915. In his career as USGS Topographical Engineer 1894-1917 T.M. Bannon had a hand in making ~50 topographic maps.

    Having grown up myself in Maryland, a highpoint was a July 1995 pilgrimage to the Bannon burial plot at St Lawrence Martyr R.C. Church in Jessup. Bannon family monument (like T.M.’s triangulation monuments) occupies a prominent position in the church graveyard.

    Photo on right is T.M.B. gravestone. Rick Baugher Photo

    Obituary notice from Washington Evening Star, Feb 6, 1917:

    THOMAS M. BANNON DIES AFTER A BRIEF ILLNESS

     Was Engineer of Topographic Branch Geological Survey- Funeral Thursday at Jessups, Md.

    Thomas M. Bannon, engineer of the Topographic Branch of the geological survey and a prominent resident of Anne Arundel county, Md, died Sunday evening at Maryland University Hospital in Baltimore. Mr Bannon had been ill only a short time. [Author’s Note: USGS said field worker deaths at that time often attributed to typhoid fever].

    Mr. Bannon had been connected with the geological survey since 1888, the greater portion of his service having been given to topographic and geodetic surveys in different western states.

    Prior to the organization of the United States reclamation service, Mr Bannon was detailed to collect the data which that organization used in connection with the development of its projects in Idaho and Utah [Author’s Note: chiefly Bear River drainage].

    In 1908 he was detailed to the Porto Rican government and placed in charge of surveys in developing irrigation of the semi-arid portion of the island.

    During the last few years Mr Bannon’s efforts had been directed to the extension of geodetic work in western Montana and eastern Idaho and in mapping portions of the national forests in Idaho.

    In addition to his official duties with the government Mr Bannon served seven years as a member of the board of governors of the Maryland board of correction and was active in many local and charitable organizations of Anne Arundel county.

    Mr Bannon was unmarried, is survived by two sisters, Mary and Francis Key Bannon, and three brothers, James T., Phillip M., and Joseph Bannon.

    Final notes: It is believed Bannon thru his mother Evaline was related to Francis Scott Key. Bannon’s federal appointment as an 18 year old was thru Rep. Barnes Compton, also an F.S. Key relative. Survey director John Wesley Powell was chided for hiring “Congressmen’s nephews”. Bannon estate in Jessup was demolished in 1950 to make way for Baltimore Washington Expressway.

    See also: Appendicitis Hill and T.M. Bannon and 1929 Borah Declared Idaho’s Highest Peak

  • Fire Lookouts By Rick Baugher

    Fire Lookouts By Rick Baugher

    For more on fire lookouts see the following articles: Boise National Forest Fire Lookouts  and An Overview of the Lookouts on the Salmon National Forest

    By the 1930s, the Forest Service had a goal to “put a firewatch on every mountaintop.” Idaho ended up with 989 fire lookout structures, more than any other state in the Pacific Northwest. Of Southern Idaho’s 128 lookouts, 36 were above 9,000 feet. Red Wings (10,910 feet) was the highest. Twin Peaks (10,340 feet) is the highest fire station in America today. By the 1960s, many of the old lookouts were destroyed in the name of progress but, fortunately, a representative sampling remain today at least until the elements ultimately win.

    Everything you’d ever want to know about lookouts is contained in the book “Fire Lookouts of the Northwest” by Ray Kresek. You can reach Ray through his Historic Lookouts Project in Spokane, Washington. In doing his research, Ray has climbed over 1,000 mountains. He knows what he’s talking about. As mountain users, sooner rather than later, we have an encounter with lightning. In his book, Ray describes one of those terrible nights in a shack on a summit, something like this:

    As the lightning approached, the firewatcher would pull the “go to hell rope” to disconnect all appliances. The copper wire grounding system would begin to hum and glow with dancing Saint Elmo Fire. At this time, as your hair began standing on end, you’d hop on a glass-legged insulated stool. For the grand finale, the blinding white light would cause anything metal to sizzle. The cabin reeked of foul ozone. After several minutes your sight and senses return….and leave you something not to forget in a lifetime.

    L to R from top: WILDHORSE PEAK el 9546' White Knob Mtns This fire lookout is preserved as a national historic monument. TWIN PEAKS el 10340' Idaho's highest outhouse provides a contemplative view to 10442' White Mountain, range highpoint of the Salmon River Mtns SLEEPING DEER el 9881' in the heart of the Frank Church Wilderness. Built in 1935. Still active. SAL MOUNTAIN el 9593' Lemhi Range This 10'x10' lookout was built in 1926. The USCGS triangulation signal is from 1945. These are the first Idaho mountains to be seen and described by a white man. Cresting Lemhi Pass on Aug 12, 1805, Meriwether Lewis records: "I discovered immence ranges of high mountains still to the west of us with their tops partially covered with snow". BLUE NOSE el 8677' ID/MT An oddity- this lookout was split down the middle by 2 states, counties, National Forest ranger districts & regions. The lower floor acomodated livestock. The brass benchmark in foreground was set by USGS' TM Bannon in 1912. MOUNT GREYLOCK el 9857' Left to the elements. By Rick Baugher, 4/24/07
    Left to right from top:
    WILDHORSE PEAK (9,546 feet): White Knob Mountains. This fire lookout is preserved as a national historic monument.
    TWIN PEAKS (10,340 feet): Idaho’s highest outhouse provides a contemplative view to 10,442-foot White Mountain, high point of the Salmon River Mountains
    SLEEPING DEER (9,881 feet): In the heart of the Frank Church Wilderness. Built in 1935. Still active.
    SAL MOUNTAIN (9,593 feet): Lemhi Range. This 10’x10′ lookout was built in 1926. The USGS triangulation signal is from 1945. These are the first Idaho mountains to be seen and described by a white man. Cresting Lemhi Pass on August 12, 1805, Meriwether Lewis records: “I discovered immense ranges of high mountains still to the west of us with their tops partially covered with snow.”
    BLUE NOSE (8,677 feet): ID/MT border. An oddity: this lookout was split down the middle by 2 States, Counties, National Forest Ranger Districts and Regions. The lower floor accommodated livestock. The brass benchmark in the foreground was set by USGS’ T. M. Bannon in 1912.
    MOUNT GREYLOCK (9,857 feet): Left to the elements.
    By Rick Baugher (April 24, 2007)